Quince had been open just a week before the buzz began, and it's only intensified in the past couple of months. If this were Broadway, we'd be talking about the type of plaudits Nathan Lane and Matthew Broderick received when they opened "The Producers." In San Francisco, dining is theater, and the duo that's making tongues wag is Michael and Lindsay Tusk. He was a chef at Chez Panisse and Oliveto, and she worked the room at Oliveto and Boulevard. Opening this restaurant is big news in a town that hasn't had much to celebrate lately.
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It's the perfect Pacific Heights hangout - understated, yet sophisticated; pretty but unpretentious, lively but stopping just short of the shout-from-the- diaphragm noise level that pervades Town Hall, the other highly anticipated recent debut.