San Francisco Chronicle:

Chapeau is one of those hidden restaurants that give immeasurable depth to the Bay Area dining scene. Though modest in appearance, it turns out food that can compete with the more elaborate "destination'' places.

The storefront space and close-together tables make Chapeau look like any of a dozen places scattered all over the urban landscape, but the food and wine offered here are often a cut above.

Owner Philippe Gardelle took over the kitchen several months ago after employing chefs including Richard Reddington, who has gone on to stardom at Auberge du Soleil in the Napa Valley. Gardelle has a classic style of cooking; it's not innovative, but it's solid.

The wine service competes with the like of Gary Danko. The sommelier cares for the wines as if they were his newborn babies. He even brings a glass to the table and tastes before he pours each bottle. No wonder people feel mesmerized by the experience.

We've always enjoyed dining at Chapeau; it's a warm, intimate restaurant with great food and wine. What more do you need?

-Tim

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