Rugged Elegance: San Francisco: Restaurant Review: Florio

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February 20, 2004

Restaurant Review: Florio

florio.small.jpg

Florio

Michael Bauer penned this review of Florio in today's San Francisco Chronicle:

Sometimes restaurants aren't designed to be destinations, but are meant to cater to those who live in a neighborhood. What sets the best local places apart is when the food is good enough to make people want to drive across a bridge to get there -- places like Delfina, Chez Papa or 1550 Hyde. Intended or not, these are destinations, and it's this type of restaurant that gives the Bay Area so much depth.
Florio is a restaurant that also fits into that category. It was designed to serve the Pacific Heights set, but the food prepared by Rick Hackett's staff, who took over a couple of years after the restaurant opened in 1998, began to attract a crowd from throughout the Bay Area. However, with the opening of Market Bar, its sister restaurant at the Ferry Plaza, the food and service has lost some of its luster. Diners can still get a fine steak frites and a pleasant simple salad, but the food doesn't stand out like it once did. Rather than a destination, Florio has returned to being a solid neighborhood haunt.

...

It's still pleasant to be at Florio, and if you stroll down Fillmore and stop in a few of the shops that stay open late, you can almost believe you're in Europe. In situations like this, Florio feels like a find, and the food becomes secondary. In the fantasy scenario, Florio measures up just fine.

We continue to believe that Florio is an excellent dining choice and have selected Florio as a "Place of Taste" in the Rugged Elegance Companion Pacific Heights Edition.

-Tim

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Posted by tim at February 20, 2004 11:57 AM

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