Restaurants' personalities often transcend bad locations. Look at the huge success of the Slanted Door on the Embarcadero, an area that put several other successful restaurateurs out of business before Charles Phan and his family transformed it. Then there's the building at Sutter and Steiner that sank several restaurants before being resurrected as the wildly popular Julia's.
That same phenomenon is happening at 1550 Hyde Cafe and Wine Bar in a location that had languished under at least three different owners. While the configuration is pretty much the same as when Elan Vitale and Luna Rossa occupied the space, the aura is totally different. Tucked away on Hyde Street behind a row of leafy trees, this restaurant glows like a gem in a jeweler's case. Once inside, it becomes obvious that the owners and have poured their heart and soul into the place.
Peter Erickson and Kent Liggett opened the restaurant in May and are methodically building a clientele. Erickson, who's in charge of the kitchen, made a name for himself at Universal Cafe. He's also worked at Zazie, Bizou and Chez Panisse, honing his California-Mediterranean style.
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The chef is clearly talented, and the restaurant clearly opened at the right time - the market has been so depressed lately that diners seem to be clamoring for a new place to try. 1550 Hyde is a true San Francisco find and, much like Delfina and Piperade, seems destined to have an area-wide impact.