Rugged Elegance: San Francisco: Restaurant Review: Kokkari Estiatorio

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November 11, 2003

Restaurant Review: Kokkari Estiatorio

Gourmet:

Whether you choose the comfortable taverna or the grand fireplace room, you'll eat peasant fare for the gods. Jean Alberti's translation of the classics is fresh and insightful: a pikilia platter of creamy carp roe, cucumber yogurt, smoky eggplant salad, and dolmades; charcoal-grilled octopus and whole fish that recall Aegean idylls; and the most appealing lamb moussaka-light yet substantial-we've come across. Airy apple fritters with Attiki honey ice cream and extraordinary pistachio baklava suggest that some of the glory that is Greece resides in its pantheon of honeyed sweets.

Editor's Note: Gourmet has chosen Kokkari Estiatorio as one of America's Best Restaurants for 2003. We agree wholeheartedly.

-Tim

Posted by tim at November 11, 2003 1:46 PM

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