The Rugged Elegance Inspiration Network: Sour Grapes - Why is There No Such Thing as a Good, Low-Priced California Wine?

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September 29, 2003

Sour Grapes - Why is There No Such Thing as a Good, Low-Priced California Wine?

Recall Red now available from Milano Family Winery featuring label with punch-card ballot in shape of California

Slate

Broadly speaking, there are two kinds of people in the world today: those running for governor of California, and those shaking their heads in disbelief at California. I'm one of the latter, but not for the reason you might think. Forget Arnold and Arianna, the real farce is what's become of California wines. How does a place so conducive to cultivating wine grapes produce so much cheap swill and overpriced mediocrity? Why is the good stuff -- what there is of it -- so egregiously expensive? And why has California given rise to such an obnoxious wine culture? If Californians want to recall something, they might start with all those insipid chardonnays.

Author Mike Steinberger suggests that "California produces almost nothing worth drinking for under $15" The culprit is often vanity as higher prices on bottles give the brand more value.

To back up his bold statement, he quotes a LA Times story in which sommeliers were tasked with finding the best value wines -- and given a $300 budget. Only one out of 39 value wines were from California. He also suggest that there's no reason a Syrah from Paso Robles should be selling for $60-$70 a bottle.

- Kevin.

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